Chef


13
May 10

Vij’s: Jackfruit in Black Cardamom and Cumin Masala

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Curry
I love Vij’s and having recently gotten to know Vikram and Meeru through interviews, I’ve really developed a great deal of respect for them, their philosophy, their food, staff and restaurants. I was delighted to be invited to come in and cook with Vij’s kitchen staff. We made a vegetarian dish that I absolutely love ordering at Vij’s, the Jackfruit in Black Cardamom and Cumin Masala. In traditional Vietnamese cooking, Jackfruit is a fruit that’s eaten as a snack or dessert. I’ve never attempted to eat young green Jackfruit before. I learned from Vikram Vij that green jackfruit is commonly used as vegetarian meat in India. In fact, his mom used to feed it to him telling him that it was meat until he tried real meat. The texture and thickness of the green Jackfruit allows for it to absorb spices and curries quite easily.

This recipe can be found in their award winning cookbook: Vij’s Elegant and Inspired Indian Cuisine.

I have to admit that I have not ever shopped for so many Indian spices before. I figure now that I own the Vij’s cookbook, it was time to stock my pantry with Indian spices. I went to Safeway and Save-on-Foods bulk sections and could not find all these spices. I found a great selection of spices at Famous Foods but only found the yellow ripe jackfruit in a can here. I went over to Sunrise market and happened to find the green young jackfruit needed for the recipe.

Video

Watch how it’s done in Vij’s kitchen.

Summary

Preparation Time: 1 hour (dry the jackfruit, deep fry jackfruit)
Cook Time: 45 min
Servings: 6 servings
Cost: $29.60 – $4.93 per serving.
Meal type: Main

Recipe Rating: ★★★★☆ 

Ingredients

*Note: I’m going to include the cost of the entire packages of spice to give you an idea of how much it costs to get started in Indian cooking. The bad news is that it’s pretty expensive when all things are added up. The good news is that these spices will be required in many Indian dishes.

  • 3 cans of young green jackfruit – $6.09
  • 6 black cardamom pods – $1.49*
  • 1/2 cup canola oil
  • 1/2 Tbsp cumin seeds – $2.59*
  • 1 cup finely chopped onion (1 large onion) – $0.50
  • 1 Tbsp chopped garlic – $0.10
  • 6-8 whole dried red chilies (broken in half with seeds) – $2.29*
  • 2 cups crushed tomatoes – $2.50
  • 1/2 Tbsp ground black mustard seeds – $1.69*
  • 1 tsp ground fenugreek seeds – $2.29*
  • 1 tsp turmeric – $1.99*
  • 1 tsp mexican chili powder – $2.59*
  • 1 tsp paprika – $1.99
  • 1 tsp ground cumin – $1.50
  • 1/2 Tbsp ground coriander – $1.99
  • 1 Tbsp salt
  • 1 cup water
  • 6 cups canola oil for deep frying

Preparation Instructions for Jackfruit

1. Line 2 baking trays with dry tea towels.
2. Place jackfruit on the tea towels for 30 minutes to drain.
Jackfruit
I drained both kinds of jackfruit (green and ripe) to compare how both absorb the curry and which tastes better. If you want to stay authentic to Indian cuisine, use the young green jackfruit. I found that the ripe yellow jackfruit that I’m used to is a lot sweeter and I like it a lot but it might be too sweet for a savoury curry dish.
You can continue on to make the masala while the jackfruit is drying then return to the next step after the masala is put together.
3. The jackfruit should now be drained and ready for deep frying. Line a baking tray with paper towel.
4. Deep fry the jackfruit on high heat for 5 minutes.
Chef’s tip: You can tell if the oil is ready if you drop a small piece of jackfruit in and it immediately floats to the top.
5. Scoop out jackfruit and cool for 15 min.
jackfruit

Instructions for Masala

1. Break black cardamom pods, remove the seeds and discard the pods.
cardamom
2. Heat a pan with oil on medium-high heat for 1 minute.
3. Add cumin seeds and fenugreek seeds, cook for 3 seconds or until it sizzles.
4. Add onions and sautee for 8-10 minutes until brown.
onions
5. Add garlic and broken dried chilies and sautee for 2 minutes.
crushed dried chilies
6. Add tomatoes.
I used a can of Hunt’s Crushed Tomato and found it to be of a much thicker consistency than when we were cooking in Vij’s kitchen. It looked a lot more like a spaghetti sauce than curry so I had to stir and add in a cup of water before it looked as watery as the one in the restaurant. This is in addition to the water called for in this recipe to be added in step #10. There’s probably another brand of crushed tomatoes that is not so thick.
7. Add the rest of the spices: black mustard seeds, turmeric, mexican chili powder, paprika, ground cumin, ground coriander and salt.
Spices
8. Stir well and reduce to medium heat.
9. Stir regularly for 10 min until oil separates and masala glistens.
10. Stir in water.
11. Turn off heat and cover the pan.
12. Stir jackfruit into masala gently so that the pieces do not break.
jackfruit masala
13. Turn the heat back to medium.
14. Once the masala is boiled, mix and reduce the heat to medium low.
15. Cover and simmer for 5 minutes and remove the lid to avoid over cooking it.
16. Serve immediately.

Results

jackfruit in cumin masala

I remember having this dish for the first time at Vij’s and our whole table argued if it was pork or beef or jackfruit. This is definitely a great (and healthy) substitute for meat which does not taste like tofu. I think that if I had more time, I would soak the jackfruit in the curry for 30 min before serving to get it to absorb more curry flavour. Both kinds of jackfruit tasted really good in the dish. We served the dish with basmati rice and naan. It was a hit – between the 5 of us, we finished off the entire pan of jackfruit masala.

I will definitely try to make other curries with jackfruit instead of meat. I’m so happy that I have all the spices now which provide a good basis for more Indian dishes to come!

Thank you so much Vij’s for all your help.

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7
May 10

Vij’s::Prawns in Coconut Masala

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I live in Toronto and while I’ve never been to Vij’s in Vancouver, I had heard a lot about it from my friends in Vancouver. It is consistently ranked as the top restaurant in Vancouver. So I decided that since I couldn’t easily go there myself, I could do the next best thing – bring Vij’s into my home by cooking his recipe. I chose the Prawns in Coconut Masala recipe because I love prawns, and the simplicity of the recipe. Here’s some words of advice from Vij via the Vancouver Sun: “This can be served as an appetizer or as part of a meal with naan or rice. You can substitute canola oil for ghee, but you’ll lose some of the flavour. The recipe follows a French style of cooking, where the prawns are cooked with the sauce.” I used canola oil instead of ghee because I didn’t have time, but I will definitely try ghee next time as the flavour was a bit subtle.

Summary

Preparation Time: 20 min
Cook Time: 10 min
Servings: 6 servings.
Meal type: Appetizer / Main

Recipe Rating: ★★★☆☆ 

Ingredients

  • 30 prawns, shelled and deveined
  • 2 teaspoons salt
  • 2 tablespoons ghee or canola oil
  • Chef’s Tip: You can substitute canola oil for ghee, but you’ll lose some of the flavour. I used canola oil. See below for the recipe for ghee.

  • ½ teaspoon cumin seeds
  • 2 large onions, chopped
  • 3 large ripe tomatoes, finely chopped
  • 2 tablespoons coconut milk, stirred
  • 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
  • 2 teaspoons chopped green chilies
  • 3 bunches green onions, white and green parts, chopped

Instructions

1. Place prawns in a colander and rinse under cold water. Allow excess water to drain. In a bowl, combine prawns and 1 teaspoon of the salt. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside in the refrigerator while you are making the coconut masala.
2. In a large frying pan, melt ghee on medium-high heat (or heat oil for 1 minute). Add cumin seeds and allow them to sizzle for 30 seconds.

3. Add onions and saute 5 to 8 minutes, or until dark brown but not burned.

4. Stir in tomatoes, coconut milk, vinegar, chilies and the remaining 1 teaspoon of salt. Cook for 5 minutes or until tomatoes are cooked through. Add green onions and stir well.
5. Add prawns, stirring constantly, until they become pinkish orange. This will take about 3 minutes. Immediately remove from heat.

6. To serve, place 5 prawns on each of six small shallow plates. Top each serving with one-sixth of the coconut masala. Alternatively, divide the coconut masala evenly among six small shallow plates, then top with 5 prawns per plate.

Recipe for Ghee (Clarified Butter)

Ingredients

  • 1 pound unsalted butter

Instructions
1. Melt butter in small, heavy pot on medium heat. Once melted, reduce the heat slightly and boil gently for 5 minutes.
2. Using a small sieve, scoop out the solids that are floating on top. Continue gently boiling butter and scooping the floating solids every 3 minutes. Scoop carefully so you remove only the solids and not the actual ghee that is forming. You will notice the butter changes slowly from a creamy light yellow to a clear golden liquid with fewer solids.
3. After 10 to 13 minutes, the ghee will start to foam. Using the sieve, scoop through the foam to make sure you have removed all of the solids. Once the foam reduces, you will have a clear golden liquid. This is ghee. Turn off the heat and allow ghee to cook for abut 20 minutes.
4. Pour ghee into a jar with a tight-fitting lid. Once it is completely cool, refrigerate. It will keep refrigerated in an air-tight container for 3 months (or longer).

Variations

I liked this a lot for shrimp, but I could see this working with other types of seafood too, such as white fish and scallops. I actually found this recipe similar to Caju’s Moqueca Stew.

Results


The Prawns in Coconut Masala was very good, but I found the flavours a bit too subtle when served with rice. I usually like very strong flavours in my stews and curries when pairing them with rice since rice is so bland. I think this would be better served as an appetizer on its own. I found the recipe really easy and simple. I think next time I make this to serve with rice I may add more spices to it but it’s great as an appetizer!

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4
May 10

Interview with Red Fish Blue Fish’s Kunal Ghose

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RFBF Kunal
A few weeks ago, YouCook posted a recipe for Spicy Spot Prawn Mayo from Red Fish Blue Fish in Victoria, BC. We had a chance to sit down with Kunal Ghose, co-owner/chef of Red Fish Blue Fish and creator of the popular tacones. We talked about the success of Red Fish Blue Fish and the importance of sustainability.

The Scoop on Red Fish Blue Fish

How did Red Fish Blue Fish get started?

My business partner Simon Sobolewski heard that the Victoria Harbour Authority wanted to put something in that space that we’re in. We put in a bid and from then on it took two years for us to get in there.

Has Red Fish Blue Fish always been Ocean Wise?

From the beginning, we decided we wanted to be 100% Ocean Wise and as green as possible. It was hard to swallow all the garbage we were creating and things not being Ocean Wise.
oceanwise
We both have kids and we want fish to be around and the oceans to be healthy for generations to come. Using fish that is troll caught in Russian waters, destroying the oceans and the carbon imprint of shipping it over here just because it’s cheaper is not the way to go. I think there should be a law against them even being able to get that here in BC. We have such great fisheries here. There is no reason not to use anything local.

Where did the tacone come from?

Gord Martin one of the owners of Go Fish went on a cooking show making fish tacos on City Cooks and we had a huge rush of people coming down asking for fish tacos. We had wanted to put fish tacos on the menu for a long time. In the end, I just tried to utilize the food we already had at Go Fish and I came up with it in about 5 minutes. It was pretty amazing. First one I made and it was like…this is it. Vancouver Magazine put it on their 101 things to eat and drink in Vancouver 2008.

Who are your food suppliers?

I try and find the best ingredient from the best person…hopefully at the best price. I mix and match and try to share the wealth. We have buying power since we’ve been around for 3 years now so we shop our needs around to different places. I have my own tuna fisherman and I get Qualicum Bay scallops and fanny bay oysters from up island. Local local local! I also use Finest at Sea and make a Red Fish Blue Fish fish stock for them to sell. Sysco and Gordon Food Services are our suppliers for paper products and drinks.

YouCook really likes that Red Fish Blue Fish uses products that are compostable.

We’re fortunate to have reFUSE, which is a composting company here on the island. We’re able to create just one bag of garbage a week of soft plastics and things like that. We pay more to have wooden cutlery that people can throw in the compost , but if we were using plastics, people might throw it in the green bin if they don’t read the signs. Now they CAN toss everything into the same bin. We pay more.. believe me, we pay more, but it’s so much more worth it. At the end of the day I can sleep well at night.
People don’t create any garbage when they eat here and I think that’s one of the reasons why we’re doing so well. People in Victoria were crying out for a place like this. There are a lot of conscious people in the city and there weren’t that many places they could go to feel good about what they’re eating and what they’re eating on. There are some serious issues going on in the world and there are a lot of Victorians that care a lot.

The Scoop on Kunal Ghose

When did you become interested in cooking?

I just always enjoyed cooking and have been cooking since I was 13. I’ll be 38 in a couple weeks so it’s been 25 years. I was working in a restaurant when I was 13 and then managing a Cactus Club when I was 19. That was my last sort of corporate job and, from then on, I did smaller sole proprietorships in Vancouver. I was creating menus and doing consulting. I was part-owner of some places around Vancouver, but Red Fish Blue Fish is probably my greatest accomplishment to this day.

What are your influences?

I come from a multi-ethnic background. My dad is East Indian and my mom is Greek, Scottish, Chilean…but we’re always eating lots of food from all over the place… Chinese, Greek, Indian. I just loved eating, that’s basically what it was. I learned from watching my parents, helping in the kitchen and just had a knack for it. I was in charge of a 60-item salad bar when I was 13 back in the 80′s and I just loved it. Now I can say I’ve made a career of it with that many years behind me so I’m pretty lucky.

What do you cook at home?

I just love to, for instance on a Sunday, go to Red Barn Market up in Saanich and it’s so great. I look around and… look at these little baby rutabagas, look at these organic short ribs, look at this… and I fill my basket with stuff. I’ll come home and make something with whatever I find. I like to let the ingredients speak for themselves. I look at it and figure out what I want to do with it. Lately, I’ve been having some pretty cool dinner parties and theme nights like an Indian spread or an Italian feast. I kind of feel a little bit re-inspired because I’ve been cooking fish tacones and fish and chips for quite a few years. I started at Go Fish about a month after they opened and was there until I moved here in July 2007, so that’s about 6 years of fish and chips and tacones. When I get a chance to cook other stuff it’s pretty fun.

What is your favourite kitchen tool?

My knife and chopping board. That’s all I need really and a frying pan and I can do wonders. The knife has to be sharp and nicely balanced between the blade and handle. I’m using one right now from Portugal. It’s a good knife, costs about $60 and it does the job. You need to sharpen and hone your knife. Sharpen it to change the shape of the blade and hone to get rid of the little metal spurs that happen from using the knife. I have a little sharpener that does both and I pretty much use it every time before I start cooking. One swipe on each to keep it nice and sharp.

Do you have any advice for home cooks?

Follow what you enjoy to eat because it comes through in your passion.. If it’s something you’re passionate about, like maybe it has to do with your own ethnicity, it will come through. Try and use as much local product as you possibly can and use a greener approach to running your business, whether it’s a restaurant or anything.

When the Dalai Lama was in town, he did a piece on businesses becoming more green and the pros and cons of it. He used Red Fish Blue Fish as an example. Sure, we pay more for all these eco-friendly features we have, but you see how busy we are and it pays for itself. If restaurants don’t jump on this trend, they’re gonna end up falling behind, especially in a town like Victoria, where people are becoming more and more conscious everyday.


Kunal left us with some resources and books that he recommends for those interested in Red Fish Blue Fish and learning more about the seafood industry.

Books You Should Check Out

I’m writing a book called Green Fish: Tales from Red Fish Blue FIsh. There are going to be recipes from the restaurant, features I’ve done and other recipes I’ve created for projects that never happened. It’s all seafood, vegetarian and all Ocean Wise. It’s in collaboration with Ocean Wise, who will help me publish it when I finish. I have no set date, but I’m hoping to get it out by next spring.

Ocean Wise also has their own book that’s coming out this summer and I have three recipes in it. It’s a collection of recipes from a bunch of local, lower mainland and Vancouver Island chefs. I’ll also have my tuna tacones published in a David Suzuki-sponsored book that’s called A Good Catch. It features chefs from all across Canada featuring Ocean Wise fish.

A really great book to read is called Bottomfeeder by Taras Grescoe. It’s a really easy read and it’s eye-opening. It talks about everything from salmon farms on our coast to tuna fishing to all sorts of travesties that are going on in the world.

Many people don’t realize what’s going on in the fishing industry, especially when so many fish that aren’t sustainable are being offered in grocery stores.

The Monterey Bay Aquarium website has a little card that you can print off and stick in your wallet. Bring it with you to the grocery store and you can check “Oh, do I want that?”. People don’t realize that they shouldn’t eat jumbo tiger prawns, but if they knew what they were pumped full of, they wouldn’t eat it. I haven’t eaten it for 7 years and only eat local spot prawns. The whole prawn industry in SE asia is horrific and is now moving on to South America.

Bottomfeeder is the book to read about all that. All we have to do is stop eating it and the industry will collapse, but it’s too hard… restaurants with super cheap seafood deals is where all the cheap fish goes… and there’s no guideline, who knows how long it will continue.


Kunal’s love of food is clear. His eco-thinking and strong passion for sustainability is really inspiring. Hopefully it will make people stop and think about their buying habits and influence more restaurants to make a change in their own establishments. Thanks for the taking time to chat with us!

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27
Apr 10

Darby’s Cottage Salad by Chef Alex Rotherham

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cottage salad
I went to visit Darby’s since it was one of the deals ($18) that stood out in the Vancouver Dine Out listing. Darby’s has always been the neighbourhood pub to go to to watch hockey games but I never heard anything about the food here. Darby’s has been undergoing major changes to their food menu, spear headed by Chef Alex Rotherham.

I met Chef Alex Rotherham and tried his Cottage Salad and Hangover Burger (both on the Dine Out menu!) and was thoroughly impressed by how all the sauces – vinaigrette, salsa, hot sauce – were made in house and how creative and passionate Chef Alex is about food!

Darbys Burger
The burgers have rectangular 100% beef chuck patties made in-house. Kudos to Chef Alex for coming up with the shape, both to fit in a ciabatta bun meant for sandwiches and to subtly show customers that the patty aren’t mass-produced. Stay tuned for how to make the Darby’s hangover burger in another post.

Alex Rotherham
It was great to hear from Chef Alex about his experiences at Macaroni Grill, opening his own restaurant, and frequent travels to London. Alex is really bright and creative and is using his skills to enhance restaurant menus by keeping things simple and fresh. His word of advice for new home chefs is to keep it simple. Use no more than 4 or 5 ingredients and don’t try making complicated things like soufflés until you’re ready.

I know it’s a little odd to be coming to the bar and ordering the Cottage Salad, but you must try this one – broccoli, chickpeas, cottage cheese, cranberries, and salsa prove to be a healthy and tasty combination. It might balance out that beer you’re drinking. Don’t take my word for it – try it as part of Dine Out…or try making it at home first because we got the recipe for you below! Combining the salad is the easy part – making the individual ingredients might take some time. Chef Alex makes the cottage cheese, salsa and herb vinaigrette from scratch and has been kind enough to show us how. In case it’s too time consuming, you can always buy these things at the grocery store. Just keep in mind how much sodium and preservatives are in the store-bought version versus making it at home with fresh ingredients!

Here’s a video of Chef Alex making the Cottage Salad:

Summary

Preparation Time: 10 mins
Cook Time: 5 mins (blanching)
The times are assuming that the chick peas are cooked, and salsa, cottage cheese and herb vinaigrette are already made. See the sub-recipes for how long those take.
Servings: 1 large salad entree
Meal type: Side or Entree

Recipe Rating: ★★★★☆ 

Ingredients for Salad

  • 2 cups (~200g) broccoli
  • 1/4 cup cooked chickpeas
  • 1 Tbsp of sun dried cranberries
    Chef’s tip: Sun dried and dried/dehydrated cranberries are not the same – get sun dried if you can. You can blanch cranberries before serving too.
  • 1/2 cup cottage cheese*
  • 1 Tbsp of herb vinaigrette*
  • 1/2 cup salsa*

Instructions for Salad

1. Bring a pot of water to boil.
2. Put broccoli florets into water for 15 seconds.
3. Remove and soak in cold water immediately.
This is how to blanch the broccoli so that it’s cooked but still crunchy.
4. Put all ingredients in a salad bowl and mix evenly. Try not to overcoat the salad with the dressing.

Results

We have yet to make this recipe at home and regret that we don’t have pictures of each of the ingredients in the salad but wanted to share the recipe with you for the start of Dine Out. We did get to try the cottage salad at Darby’s after Chef Alex demonstrated it and it was really good. The broccoli, chick peas, salsa, cottage cheese, and vinaigrette give the salad a lot of different textures and flavours that all work together. We could see this becoming part of our weekly meals!

Below are recipes for each of the home made ingredients to the salad provided by Chef Alex Rotherham.

Home made Cottage Cheese

I didn’t realize how simple it is to make cottage cheese at home. Chef Alex informed me how much preservatives and salt is added to the cottage cheese you buy in the grocery store. He wanted to experiment with making cheese last year and created this salad to go with the cheese – these instructions look so easy! Make sure you get skim milk, not whole milk – whole milk has chemicals that specifically don’t allow it to separate. I haven’t tried this yet, but will soon.

This cheese will last 2 weeks if kept refrigerated.

Ingredients for Cottage Cheese

  • 4L of skimmed milk
    Chef’s tip: ONLY use skim milk
  • 1/2 cup lemon juice
  • 1/2 cup vinegar
  • 1 tsp of sea salt

Instructions for Cottage Cheese

1. Set up a mixing bowl over a pot of boiling water.
2. Put salt and milk into the mixing bowl.
3. Heat milk to 80°C. The milk must reach this temperature but be careful not to go any hotter than that because it will scorch.
4. When it reaches that temperature, slowly add lemon juice and vinegar.
5. Gently stir with a rubber spatula.
6. It will take a few seconds for the milk to separate and cheese to form a large mass, stop stirring and remove from heat.
Note: the liquid will all turn yellow. This is normal.
7. Allow curds to settle to the bottom of the pan (about 5 minutes)
8. Strain off the liquid. This can be used for cream soups and cream sauces.
9. Place curds into a fine strainer or several layers of cheese cloth.
10. Cool the cheese in the refrigerator for 25-30 minutes.
11. Once fully formed, turn out onto cutting board and cut into small cubes at 1oz per serving.

Fresh Herb Vinaigrette

Home-made vinaigrettes don’t last very long, but they are surely more flavourful, fresh and don’t have all the salt and preservatives like the ones that are store bought. If fresh herbs are in season, it is definitely cheaper to make this at home, not to mention more rewarding.

This makes a 500mL (16oz) bottle of dressing.

Ingredients for Vinaigrette

  • 2 cups of canola oil
  • 1 cup (40g) of basil
  • 1/2 cup (20g) of arugula
  • 1 1/2 cup (60g) of parsley
  • 2 tsp of honey
  • 1/6 tsp of cayenne pepper
  • 1/4 tsp of sea salt
  • 1/2 cup of vinegar

Instructions for Vinaigrette

1. Combine all ingredients, except for vinegar, in a blender.
2. Blend and slowly pour vinegar while blending.
3. Transfer into bottle and store in the fridge.

Fresh Salsa

This recipe from Darby’s also uses a home-made hot sauce recipe, which isn’t provided. I find that store bought salsa is either never hot enough or too hot for my taste so I do enjoy making my own salsa. You can also make it as chunky as you’d like.

This recipe will yield about 2.5 cups of salsa.

Ingredients for Salsa

  • 1 can (2 cups, 14.5oz) Diced tomatoes
  • 1 medium onion (1 cup) diced red onions
  • 6 tbsp chopped parsley
  • 2 tsp hot sauce
  • 1/4 tsp sea salt
  • 1/4 tsp black pepper

Instructions for Salsa

1. Combine all ingredients into a stainless steel mixing bowl.
2. Mix well and transfer into a container to refrigerate.

Darby's Pub on Urbanspoon

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Rating: 5.0/5 (1 vote cast)


21
Apr 10

Miku Restaurant

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Rating: 5.0/5 (1 vote cast)

Miku Sushi
Vancouver is world renowned for it’s fresh sushi and Japanese restaurants. In the downtown core, you can find a Japanese restaurant on every block so it is very hard to differentiate. Miku Restaurant was opened by Seigo Nakamura in October 2008 and has since been the talk of many foodies, bloggers, and media in Vancouver.

Miku is participating in Vancouver Dine Out April 26 – May 6 so you can see for yourself how special this restaurant is.

I was excited to come in to learn more about Japanese food and cooking from a Japanese chef/business owner! As an added highlight to the day, I also met Chef Takuya Motohashi. Chef Takuya Motohashi is from Victoria where is parents ran a Japanese restaurant. He trained in restaurants in Tokyo and Osaka before returning to Vancouver and joining Miku. Thanks Chef Takuya Motohashi for translating and showing us how the food is prepared at Miku.

Seigo Nakamura
Seigo Nakamura took over the family business (Tora Corporation) of nine traditional sushi restaurants in Japan and wanted to do something different and innovate as he expanded to North America. Seigo decided that the restaurant would specialize in Aburi sushi. Aburi style is when fish is partially grilled topside by a blowtorch. In order to keep the gas smell away from the food, they add charcoal.
aburi sushi
There are no other restaurants in the world that serve and primarily feature Aburi sushi. The sushi is also served in block form, using an oshibako. This kind of pressed sushi is called oshizushi and is popular in the Kansai Region.
Miku Sushi

Interview with Seigo Nakamura

Seigo NakamuraWhat is your inspiration for Miku?
I want to use very traditional techniques and styles. But as a business strategy – innovate and do something different.

What do you cook?
I love to cook everything! My job is company management but cooking is my hobby. I like to cook for my family and my partners and employees and invite them to my home. Chinese, Japanese, Italian…everything.


What is your advice for people that starting to cook home?
Don’t be afraid to take on the challenges. You’ll make food that tastes bad sometimes. You have to keep cooking and learn and work at it. There will always be people who will eat your food, so don’t worry if it tastes bad.
You should enjoy it. Enjoy is best!

What is your favourite tool in the kitchen?
My hands. My hand is very very important…

What’s next?
We will be opening another restaurant in North America by end of this year.

Chicken Nanban

Chicken Nanban
From our talk with Chef Takuya and Seigo Nakamura, I learned that sushi is not commonly eaten in most Japanese households but only saved for special occasions. I wanted to learn more about what is cooked at home in Japan. Miku features a common comfort food dish from the Miyazaki prefecture called chicken nanban. It’s deep fried chicken served with different sauces like tartare or mayonnaise-based sauce which can be found everywhere in Japan and Vancouver. The Chefs informed me that what makes the Miku one special is that the chicken nanban is marinated after it is fried. Also, it helps that Tora Corporation comes from Miyazaki where it is their featured regional cuisine.

Miku Secrets

egg sushi
Sauces are important at Miku and also a secret. The unique thing about eating sushi at Miku is that the pieces are seasoned enough that you don’t need to use soy sauce or wasabi. We could not get our hands on the special Miku sauce recipe which is found on many of their dishes. Seigo informed us that he came up with the sauce by accident when trying to make something else. They can tell us the ingredients but the process of making the sauce takes special care and effort. Even at the restaurant, not all the chefs know how to make the sauce.




Another closely kept secret at Miku (and all other Japanese restaurants and households) is the Rice. I noticed that the rice texture at Miku is very different from other restaurants and asked about it.
sushi rice
Our sushi rice is very traditional. The method has been passed down from generation to generation. It doesn’t change and only a few of the chefs know the exact recipe. The amount of water, the amount of time, the temperature – everything has been calculated and done like we do so in Japan.We get the rice directly from Japan which is more expensive but it’s such an important component of our sushi. It’s so special that not everyone here is allowed to cook it.

I found a great blog post on how to make rice like the Japanese do and it sure is way more time consuming than making Uncle Ben’s minute rice. There’s a lot of time and care taken to soak and clean the rice. I asked Chef Takuya if they get Shinmai (newly harvested rice) but he said that it’s not the only factor in making good rice and does not necessarily make the best tasting rice.

One more not so secret recipe for success at Miku are the fresh ingredients. Miku participates in Ocean Wise and indicates which fish is Ocean Wise certified on their menu. They also get fresh fish right from the Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo! If only we could get such fresh fish at home…
Fresh Tuna

Miku Restaurant on Urbanspoon

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12
Apr 10

Ken Nakano at the Fairmont Empress in Victoria

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Empress
I was given a chance to taste delicious fresh seafood from Vancouver Island during the Olympics and decided then that I had to do a Food Tour of Vancouver Island. Victoria is the capital of British Columbia and, with its mild temperature and stunning scenery, is the ideal retirement city in Canada. What I didn’t know was that this city also has one of the most restaurants per capita in North America, so now we’re expanding to have YouCook Victoria coverage on our blog!
Trees
Every tourist in Victoria has to have a picture of the Empress Hotel looking over the Inner Harbour. I love the vines covering the building and the gardens surrounding it. There’s also a herb garden on the roof that the chefs use in the summer. The Empress has 5 kitchens with the capacity to accommodate 75 kitchen staff during peak season! It is most well-known for Victoria’s grandest tradition – High Tea, where guests sit in the elegant tea lobby with a beautiful view of Victoria while feasting on tea, sandwiches, scones and sweets.

My assumption was that the Empress would be very pricey, hold on to old traditions, not have the flexibility to break from traditionally-prepared food, and that it probably didn’t cater to the not-retired demographics. As I talked to Chef Nakano however, I realized how wrong I was and how forward-thinking the Empress was to try to cater to the evolving younger foodie demographic.

Wine and Food Pairing

We dropped by yesterday evening and saw that you were leading a Quail’s Gate Wine Tasting event. How do you come up with the food pairings for wine?
Our tasting events are approachable, casual and the goal is to demystify the wine. With events like this, we’re making wine more accessible to people. We talk about the food and the wine and how the particular combinations came up.

For wine pairings, I focus on texture. Everyone’s tastes for flavours can vary. A lot of commonality in wine pairing is how it feels in your mouth because that’s how we might react to more similarly. For example, I often hear wine tasters say I taste cinnamon and tabacco, fern and burnt leaves. And…I don’t. But if you say I feel crispy or fatty, I think that’s more common.

Actually, we have ideas on how to make it even more interactive:

Dining at the Empress

Is the Empress approachable for the middle-class and working demographic?
Historically, this hotel has catered to wealthy people. But that market over the years has been shrinking, so we’re trying to cater to the new market…like you and your friends to come in once a month or something. Usually we get special events such as anniversaries, proposals, birthdays, which are great, but we would like it to be more regular. It’s a little bit daunting – there used to be a harpist in a tuxedo. We used to have those polished silver dome covers at every dinner service up until 2 weeks ago, but now it’s gone. We still do it for special events like those 2 or 3 hour dinners.

We’re famous for our afternoon tea, but it’s not the only thing we do. The Bengal Lounge gets a lot of good feedback. A lot of people say that the food has been consistently the same for the past 10 years. It’s because the chefs that has been cooking it has been here for 30 years!

What do you serve as Canadian cuisine here?
We do classical French techniques, but try to use all local ingredients like salmon. We feature regional products from the fishermans and farmers. The recipe I’m going to send you is something I created for this purpose – to start our regionality and showcase our products. It’s a scallop dish with wild mushroom streudel. It includes a local winery, Venturi Schulze, who makes balsamic vinegar in Modena Style and it showcases local Qualicum Bay scallops.

The geoduck that I demonstrated is from Fan’s Seafood. There’s not a big market for them here in Canada yet though but I’m always trying. Right now I’m helping create awareness for side-stripe shrimps, amaebi, from Iron Maiden Seafoods. Everyone is used to spot prawns. I showcased it last night at the Quail’s Gate pairing:

2008 Chenin Blanc
Side-stripe shrimp ceviche
Avocado sheet
maldon sea salt

The side-stripe shrimps are vegetarian and they sit a few meters above the ground, whereas spot prawns are on the bottom eating anything on the bottom. They have a sweeter taste and have a different texture.

Advice for Us

What’s your favourite tool?
Chopsticks. I use them all the time – here at the restaurant I keep them in my jacket for plating. People use tongs. I find chopsticks more precise and we have a certain dexterity that we call Ki-you in Japanese.

What’s your advice for people who are just starting to cook?
Get the right cookware. Pots and pans are sold in sets, but they’re not all well suited for what you cook. I have a cast iron frying pan for searing things. I have a cast iron braising pot. I have a copper fry pan and saute pan. Don’t get caught up in buying sets, but look at tools for your individual needs. Same goes for hand tools such as knives.

What knife should beginners get?
If you are just starting out and want to learn, get a carbon-steel knife. It takes more maintenance, but it will teach you to understand and respect your knife. You need to buy a stone to sharpen your knife. It’s a little bit daunting to figure out how to sharpen it. Once you understand how to sharpen it the knife will wear down in 15 or 20 years but during that 20 years you’ll have the best knife you’ll ever use. It won’t be shiny and stainless, but if you are worried about how pretty your knife looks, don’t get it.

Your Culinary Identity

What influenced you in becoming a chef?
My parents are both Japanese and immigrated here. Japanese food is highly seasonal and highly regional. Every food has a meaning, whether its food festival day or boys festival or girls festival. My brother and I gardened – my mom was a great cook and meals were important! It wasn’t something where you just eat and go. You stop, make sure you get the good stuff, eat it, clean up…and then go.

Where have you cooked?
Coming out of cooking school at BCIT – I worked at the Delta hotel in Vancouver under a German chef who highly was involved with Team Canada competitions. Then I went to Singapore at the Hyatt. Then Crystal Cruise lines to Malaysia and Indonesia. It was a small luxurious ship – 180 passengers and 180 staff. I learned a lot – the menu was: 4 soups, 4 cold appetizers, 5 hot appetizers, 6 hot entrees and 5 desserts which changed everyday for 2 weeks at a time! The menu was set because we had to buy everything before we left the port. It was a great experience!

For chefs, it’s great to go out of your food chain. When you go to the tropics, there’s a different degree of freshness for fruits and vegetables. It’s hard to explain to someone what the difference between a grocery store banana and what a fresh banana tastes like.

What is the Island Chefs’ Collaborative and why did you join?
When I first came to Victoria, I lived at the hotel for a few months and I’d walk around and eat around. I’d do some research to see what the trends are. As I’m doing this, I’d walk by a small corner grocery store and they’ll have these cherry tomatoes grown in Saanich. They would be fiercely proud of it. I started looking around a bit and there were more farmers markets, like James Bay. It didn’t take me long to get engaged in what was going on. Then I became involved with the Island Chefs’ Collaborative. It originally started as 6 to 8 chefs that wanted to get the freshest produce from farmers. Now, it has grown to raise public awareness of local foods and supporting local farms. We also helped bring Ocean Wise over to Victoria.

What is Defending our Backyard?
This is our third annual local food festival happening May 30th, 2010. It is happening at Fort Rodd Hill, a national historic site.

We get involved in a lot of food events where we go and it’s all about us and where we’re from. We have big signs with our restaurant and we have the chef jackets. However, with the collaborative, it’s about the farmers. All of our work goes directly to the farmers – its not for profit. Everything that we do is to increase their ability to maintain their farms. We’re putting the farmers and growers and fisherman’s first. They’re there shucking oysters and talking to the people. We’re there offering the food, but we’re showcasing them. That’s part of the fun. We get some exposure, but its for the farmers. We want to show people that “We’re cooking the food, but it’s only because we got the good stuff from that guy”.

Thanks so much and see you on May 30th!

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9
Apr 10

YouCook makes Four’s Quinoa Tabbouleh and Salmon

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A few weeks ago we wrote about Chef Matt Rosen’s recipe for Quinoa Tabbouleh and Grilled Salmon. Here’s a clip from YouCook’s visit with Chef Matt Rosen where he explains the dish:


I LOVE how simple and delicious this recipe is and have made it twice this month! Here are my observations:

Boiling Quinoa
The recipe just calls for cooked quinoa so I wanted to elaborate on how to cook quinoa for those of you who have never used this in your life. Cooking quinoa is a lot like cooking couscous or rice. Quinoa will expand to triple its uncooked size so use a pot that accounts for that. The Quinoa 365 book mentions a few methods of cooking quinoa but I’ll just explain the one I used called Simmer and Set. It is also the preferred method of the authors of the book since it’s quick and no draining is required. Quinoa cooks in half the time it takes to cook rice – one cup takes roughly 10-15 minutes.

1. Combine the quinoa and water (1:3 ratio) in a pot and bring to a boil.
2. Cover, reduce to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes.
3. Turn off heat, keep pot covered for another 5 minutes or until it’s soft depending on what you’re going to use the quinoa for.

In case you have excess water, you can just drain it out. That’s about it!

Quinoa really varies in price and availability!
In Vancouver, I’ve found it for 89 cents per 100g in the bulk section and I’ve also found a box at Safeway for $8.99 for 2 cups! I’ve tried No Frills (in the West End) and Canadian Superstore (at Metrotown) and they don’t carry it. I’m tempted to write in to them to request it. As more and more people learn how to cook with quinoa I hope it becomes part of every grocery store (and at a reasonable price!)

I never have a BBQ or grill readily available for the salmon.
I follow the recipe for the Quinoa Tabbouleh but end up baking the salmon instead of grilling it. Vancouver is known for its delicious wild sockeye salmon and I *think* I’ve mastered how to make it turn out delicious.
1. Buy a fillet of salmon enough for 4 people.
2. Squeeze half a lemon on to the salmon.
3. Cut the other half lemon into round slices.
4. Rub in salt, pepper, fresh parsley (and any other spices you want).
5. Put lemon slices on top of salmon.
6. Wrap it with parchment paper (preferable) or aluminum foil and bake in the oven at 400 degrees for 12-15 min.
7. Take it out right away so that it doesn’t get overcooked in the oven.

Substitute vegetables
The recipe calls for tomatoes and green beans but other greens always catch my eye while I’m grocery shopping! I think that I have a new theory about how to tell what’s in season – its the most abundant and cheaper than usual vegetables in the store. This past weekend I picked up asparagus and a few weeks ago I had it with mushrooms, red pepper and onions.

Left over quinoa
Every time I make this dish, I always find myself with more quinoa than salmon so it forces me to do something creative the next day. I made a tuna salad wrap for lunch and added quinoa – it worked quite well. I added it into a spinach salad – that tasted really good too. I’m starting to see how versatile quinoa really is!

Thanks again Chef Matt Rosen and Four.

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7
Apr 10

La Pommeraie Bistro: Scrumpy Chicken Pot Pie

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Scrumpy Chicken Pot Pie at La Pommeraie
Driving through the rolling hills of Cowichan Valley, we went in search of Merridale Estate Cidery in Cobble Hill. We arrived at our destination after making a few turns off Highway 1 and following the small Merridale apple signs. Merridale has been open since 1990 with a few recent additions which make it a culinary treat! A brick oven was built outside by the patio and is now used to make all their bakery goodies by their Master Baker Alain Bousseau and to make pizzas during the summer months. A major addition to Merridale was La Pommeraie Bistro, which was opened in 2005 to serve food that would highlight the already popular ciders being offered at the ciderhouse.

Chef Woolfall and the brick oven

We decided to enjoy our lunch out on the sunny enclosed patio where we could see rows and rows of apple trees. The menu is simple and they incorporate seasonal changes. We settled on three dishes to try: the Scrumpy Chicken Pot Pie and the Lamb Burger, and a special Seafood Pot Pie.

Of course, we couldn’t eat here without also ordering the cider flights.

Cider Flights

It was fun to try all the different ciders and to taste the flavour and textural differences. It was a collection of 6 ciders arranged in order from the very dry Cidre Normandie to the sweet Cyser. The Somerset cider really did taste like champagne and the Merri Berri, a cider mixed with unfermented berries and fruits, was a general favourite and can luckily be found in most liquor stores.

We were happy to get a chance to meet Chef Dave Woolfall, who came out to talk to us. We never expected to meet such a skilled chef of international fame right here on Vancouver Island. He has been cooking for 30 years in London, France, Israel before recently coming to White Rock and now Vancouver Island to be reunited with the love of his life from highschool. He has also ran restaurants with Michelin Stars and AA Rosettes in London!

He imparted some words of wisdom for home cooks like us:
When starting out, don’t copy Gordon Ramsey or famous chef recipes with 20 ingredients. Keep it simple. Those recipes are complicated on purpose – If everyone could make his food, he wouldn’t be so famous.

I like that because keeping it simple means less dishes in the kitchen for me to wash up and unknown ingredients to buy! He also gave us this other little tip:
Don’t try to make the food look like the pictures in cookbooks or magazines. Restaurants and chefs pay a lot of money to make food look good. Focus on the taste.

I can safely say that I’ve tried to copy recipes and came out at the end wondering why mine didn’t look as good as theirs! I’ll keep this excellent piece of advice in mind for next time.

Below is the recipe for Scrumpy Chicken Pot Pie that Chef Woolfall happily shared with us.

Summary

Preparation Time: 30 min
Cook Time: 1 hour
Servings: 5 to 6
Meal Type: Lunch/Dinner
Total Cost: $44.30

Recipe Rating: ★★★★☆ 

Ingredients

  • 5 free-range chicken breasts, diced ($17.00; mine were not free-range)
  • 750mL Scrumpy cider from Merridale Ciderworks ($12.10)
  • 500mL concentrated chicken stock ($1.50; I used chicken broth)
    Cider and Stock
  • 3 large carrots, diced ($0.70)
  • 1/2 head celery, diced ($0.75)
  • 1 medium onion, diced ($1.30)
  • 1lb. crimini mushrooms, sliced ($4.50)
    Vegetables
  • 1/4 cup smooth Dijon mustard ($0.85)
  • 1/8 cup tarragon ($0.75)
  • 500mL heavy cream ($2.25)
  • flour/water mix to thicken the soup ($0.10; I used approximately 1/4 cup flour)
    tarragon, heavy cream, mustard, flour mix
  • puff pastry or pie crust ($2.50)

Procedure

1. Bring the stock and Merridale cider to a boil.
2. Add the diced chicken and cook until the meat is just firm. Remove and set meat aside. I let the chicken cook in the stock for about five minutes.
Chicken cooking in stock
3. Add the vegetables and mushrooms to the stock and cook until they just retain a bite. Remove and set aside. The vegetables took a little longer than the meat and I let it cook in the stock for about 15 minutes.
Vegetables cooking in stock
4. Add the tarragon, mustard and cream to the stock and bring to a full boil. I couldn’t find fresh tarragon anywhere… Not even sure if it’s available fresh anywhere, so I used dried tarragon.
Spiced stock
5. Mix some flour with water and whisk this into the stock to thicken it. Make sure the liquid is thick enough to support the ingredients inside the pie. It shouldn’t have a thin, soupy consistency. I happened to only have whole wheat flour at home, but I think it would have worked much better with white flour. I just made sure that the flour/water mix was quite thin, which allowed the bigger particles of whole wheat to fall to the bottom of my cup, which I then disposed of after carefully pouring in the liquid portion. Point? Use white flour!
6. Add the chicken and vegetables back to the pot. Simmer for 10 minutes to allow the flavours to mix.
Simmering chicken and vegetables in the pot
7. Divide between pie dishes. Make sure you are using oven-safe dishes!
8. Top with your favourite pastry. La Pommeraie uses puff pastry for their version, but you can use short crust, if you’d like!
9. Put the dish in the oven to bake the pastry and brown the crust. It took about 20 minutes at 400C for mine to turn out.
pie in oven

Results

Scrumpy Chicken Pot Pie

I was actually surprised that I didn’t have to add any salt to it at all, but it had so much flavour already. I found it to be a little too rich so I would add less whipping cream next time. Mine doesn’t look like La Pommeraie’s, but hey, it tastes good and that’s what matters for now! I put an estimated time of 1.5 hours to make this, but I’m fairly slow at chopping vegetables and cooking in general. Thank you so much to the staff at Merridale Estate Cidery and a big thank you to Chef Dave Woolfall for taking time during a busy afternoon lunchtime to chat with us and take us out to the brick oven patio. La Pommeraie is easily one of our top favourite restaurants on the Island and we’ll be back!

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2
Apr 10

Vij’s Lamb Popsicles

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YouCook recently visited Vij’s in Vancouver and tried the legendary Vij’s Lamb Popsicles. We got the recipe for Vij’s Lamb Popsicles and cooked it in our Test Kitchen in Toronto. These lamb popsicles have been so popular that it continues to stay on the menu year after year. Below is the photo from one of multiple Lamb Popsicle dishes that we ordered during our visit. Tell us how you plate it!

I think I’ve invented the next big home cooking trend! Do you find yourself constantly rushed for time? Wish you could prepare a fresh meal after a long day of work but just don’t have the time? Need a new culinary challenge? Well now there’s…car cooking!!

Vij’s recipe calls for two to four hours of marinating the lamb but my schedule didn’t allow me to get home to marinate the meat in time for dinner. So I rushed to the grocery store on my way to the gym, picked up the lamb and marinade ingredients, combined the two (I can’t give you the details on when and how, as some traffic laws may or may not have been broken in the process) and let the meat chill out in the car while I worked up an appetite at the gym. After an hour of aerobics class plus driving time to get home, the meat was just about ready to be grilled on the bbq.

The end result was absolutely delicious. I love melt-in-your-mouth rack of lamb and the mustard goes great with the flavour of the lamb. The cream sauce is like nothing I’ve ever tasted before – I definitely see why this is a favourite dish at Vij’s, even if they aren’t using my car cooking method. Just keep in mind to reserve this new cooking trend for cool spring evenings instead of hot summer days. Unless you’re frying eggs, maybe?

Summary

Preparation Time: 10 mins hands on plus 2-4 hours sitting time
Cook Time: 10 mins
Servings: 6 mains, or more for appetizers
Meal type: Dinner
Grocery Cost: $76.30

Recipe Rating: ★★★★☆ 

Ingredients

  • 4 pounds French-cut racks of lamb, in chops ($60)
  • 1/2 cup sweet white wine ($4)
  • 1/4 cup grainy yellow mustard ($2.60)
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1 teaspoon ground black pepper

Curry Sauce:

  • 4 cups whipping cream ($6.70)
  • 1 tablespoon salt
  • 1 teaspoon paprika
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper
  • 1 tablespoon dried green fenugreek leaves ($2)
  • 1/4 cup lemon juice
  • 3 to 4 tablespoons canola oil
  • 3 tablespoons finely chopped garlic ($1)
  • 1 teaspoon turmeric

A couple of things to note with the ingredients:

  • In the interest of not spending $60 on lamb, I used 2 lbs and mixed lamb rack with loin chops. The lamb racks tasted better, but the loins were much cheaper (approx. $10 per lb). I fed 4 people with the 2 lbs of mixed lamb.
  • This was the first time I’ve used fenugreek to cook with. Both the seeds and leaves are used in Indian cooking, but have different flavours. I couldn’t find fenugreek in the large grocery chains, so I picked it up from a Pakistani store – they call it methi.


Directions

Lamb
Combine wine, mustard, salt and pepper in a large bowl. Add lamb and coat well with the marinade. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 to 4 hours.

Sauce
1. In a large bowl, combine cream, salt, paprika, cayenne, fenugreek leaves and lemon juice.
I used the whole tablespoon of salt and I found the sauce a bit salty. A teaspoon or so would be better – or salt to taste.
2. Heat 3 to 4 tablespoons oil in a medium pot on medium heat and saute garlic until golden.
3. Stir in turmeric and cook for 1 minute.

4. Stir in the cream mixture and cook on low to medium heat for about 5 minutes, or until it is gently boiling.

To finish off
Preheat a stove-top cast iron grill or barbecue to high heat. Place lamb on the grill and cook for 2 to 3 minutes per side.

Serving
Serve popsicles piping hot off the grill. Depending on their size, place 4 to 5 lamb popsicles on each plate. Pour the cream curry over the meat or ladle it into a small bowl and use it as a dipping sauce for the popsicles.
I enjoy putting rice into the cream curry sauce and mixing it up after the lamb popsicles are gone.

Results

Variations

I am used to thicker curry sauces so I asked a friend how Indian cream curries are usually made. He told me his mom uses thick yogurt, like Balkan style yogurt except hers is home made, to make thick creamy curries. Traditionally it’s a mix of cream and yogurt but to make it lower in fat his mom uses all yogurt. So expect this curry sauce to be runny but delicious!

Also as I mentioned I found the sauce a bit salty, especially because I reduced it a bit in an attempt to thicken it. Next time I would use less salt, especially since it can always be added at the end.

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1
Apr 10

Interview with Vikram Vij: Running Vij’s

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Vij and YouCook
Here is part two of our interview with Vikram Vij. We asked him about running the restaurant, how the menu is selected and what he sees for the future of fine dining Indian restaurants.

We also made Vij’s Lamb Popsicles in our test kitchen and they were DELICIOUS. Stay tuned for the recipe tomorrow.

Who creates the dishes?

Mostly my wife creates the dishes now. Maybe I have one or two dishes on the menu no more than that. She’ll make something up and ask me what I think. Then I’ll say do this to it, do that to it or don’t do anything to it, it’s perfect. It’s a very collaborative effort. It’s like a partnership for raising children. The dishes are our babies.

What should we order?

Your staff is all female and vegetarian. How do they taste the meat dishes in your menu?

They taste the sauce but never taste the meat. They’ll taste the saltiness that’s required. Usually around 12, 12:30 in the afternoon once they made the dishes I’m here or Meeru is here or Mike (one of my managers) is here. We usually taste the dishes to see if they’re perfectly flavoured. Otherwise in the evening in the kitchen I’m always tasting. I’m always improvising on the dishes.

How often does the menu change?

Every 2-3 months it changes. We left this one on for a little longer because of the Olympics. The way it works is that the oldest stuff goes but some of the staple stuff stays. The lamb popsicles and beef short ribs stay on the menu. It gives us the flexibility of people coming in and saying “Oh, we heard about the lamb popsicles” – they want that. The creativity comes from other dishes that are not lamb popsicles. If four people are sitting, they’ll order one lamb popsicle and will have 2-3 other new additions.

How was it for you to start a restaurant in Vancouver?

I started 16 years ago, in 1994. The first 3 months were tough. I opened it, cooking, served all by myself. After the 3 months and we got a good review from a food writer – we haven’t looked it back. But having said that, I’ve also worked extremely hard in making sure that I’m on the floor and taking these people’s hands and guiding them through the menu and educating them through the food.

I haven’t had the attitude – “I know what I’m doing, eat it!”. I’ve had more of an attitude of, “Hey you came to my house, I will educate you on how the food should be served and eaten.” I don’t mind going up to people and saying, “Hey why are you eating this bread with knife and fork? Use your hands”.

It’s tough though. I’ll be honest with you, I don’t want anybody to think you can just do it. 16 years have gone by. At the end of the day, I still absolutely love what I do. I get such a thrill out of cooking. I’ve not taken anything for granted. I get a little nostalgic thinking about it. I thought I wasn’t going to make it. I thought I was going to fail because the first three months was really tough for me. Now I have 2 restaurants here and my production facility.

I hear there’s a new restaurant?

I bought a piece of land on Cambie. Vij’s will move there. Rangoli will stay where it is. I’ve come up with a new concept for this restaurant (to replace the original Vij’s). I think it’s time for me to come up with newer things. It just gives me pleasure to do new things and juggling everything. I’m not the type to say “Hey I’ve done it, I’m going to sit on my lulls”. I will be at all four places – 1 hour here, 1 hour there.

I mean, if Obama can run a country at the age of 48, I’m sure I can run a small empire at the age of 45. If he can do it, so can I. That’s my motivation! I saw him last night at midnight giving a speech! It’s midnight and he was so articulate. I admire him so much. I feel like I’ve done nothing compared to what he’s achieved.

Tell us about your new facility at Cloverdale and your new line of frozen food?

The idea of the bags is that it’s home cooking. It’s like if your Mother made you delicious soup and she sent you home with it in a can and put it in the freezer, that’s exactly what we’ve done. There’s no preservatives, there’s no messing around. It’s home cooked meal by the ladies. I would want you to open it up, put it in a pan, heat it up that way instead of a microwave.

When you make pasta, you really don’t make pasta. Just for the fact that you boil pasta, makes you feel like you made the pasta. Even if you take the tomato sauce and put a few vegetables in a pan, it makes you feel like “I made the pasta”. That’s exactly what I want to do. My focus in life has been to bring the awareness of my cuisine up and bring the awareness of my culture up pretty strongly. Once you open up a pouch and put it in the pan and you taste it and you feel you can handle a little more chili or cilantro to it – you can add it. The perception in your mind is, “Oh I made it!”. That way, next time you might not buy the bag but you can buy the spices and start from scratch.

It’s a slow osmosis process of learning how to cook Indian food.

London has a $3 billion Indian food industry. Why isn’t Vancouver like this?

Well, the Indians that went to London went way earlier than the ones that came to Canada. Indians immigration to London started in the 1800s. The Indians in London are way more established than the ones in North America. As a result, the Indian food industry here has not been as strong. It will happen.

In November, I did a fun cooking show with Atul Kochhar and Vivek Singh. I must say that yes, there’s a huge Indian food industry there but there are a lot of mainstream restaurants (butter chicken, chicken tikka masala). There’s probably only 30% of these restaurants that are venturing out and pushing the limits. There’s Veera Swamy, Amaya, Benares, Rasoi – these are the restaurants that have pushed the limits. It takes time. Indian chefs have to travel and study abroad and learn French ways of cooking and incorporate these techniques with Indian flavours.

In North America, other than you, who else is doing this new style of Indian cuisine?

There’s Amaya in Toronto that’s doing similar to what I have done. My good friend Floyd Cardoz in New York at Tabla. He’s doing a great job with that. There’s a few restaurants that are coming up. It’s important for us to understand that without forgetting our cultural roots we need to expand our horizon. We need to move a little bit further. If we don’t, we’ll just be another cuisine that’s tucked under the carpet and not taken seriously.

What should you do to get Indian food to be taken seriously as a fine dining cuisine?

If you want to be taken seriously, you need to be in the playing field like the French cooking, Californian cuisine, Italian cooking. We’ve got to start thinking in their mind set. Putting it in nice stemware, making a nice roux. It’s not like your mother is cooking the curry, your sister is serving and your dad is doing the cash. Run the restaurant professionally and properly. As a customer, it doesn’t matter what comes on your plate – whether its French food or Indian food. As long as you’re getting the passion and love behind the chef and the owner. That’s how you get taken seriously.

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